I’ve tried to post something like the following many times, but never found the will to complete it or edit it or post it. But this evening I’ll try again. I intended to post this on the date.

On the morning of August 7, 1995, around 5:00 am, the phone rang. On the other end, Danny. “Den died just a little while ago,” he said. “They just picked up his body to take to the funeral home.” We exchanged some transactional comments…”Are you doing OK?” “Yeah.” I love you,” I said. I said, “Is Jules there?” “Yeah.” “I’ll be up this afternoon.” He said, “You know what to do? “Yeah,” I said. Then we said other things I don’t really remember before we hung up. My head full of events of the past few weeks, the past few years.

Danny had just been home that weekend to celebrate our eighth anniversary, me taking him that Sunday night, the night before, to catch a flight back to Minneapolis to continue to take care of Den, our good friend, my mentor at Saks Fifth Avenue, the person to whom I would attribute a large part (most maybe?) of what I can now articulate about fashion, art, architecture…an appreciation for beauty, sometimes in its most unseemly appearances.

I had a list of folks to call to let them know what happened. Before I did that, I went into the TV room of our apartment, I lit a cigarette, somewhere along about the sixth or seventh puff, I caught myself saying aloud, “Oh, Den,” over and over.

A couple weeks before, Danny had called, he missed me, asked if I would come up and maybe stay with Den for a couple of nights over the weekend so he could have a break and so we could see each other. He got me a cheap flight. When Danny picked me up at the airport, as we were walking the concourse toward baggage claim, Danny suddenly gasped and bent over, “Oh, sweetie! You want to sit down?” I said. “I’m OK.” he said. He straightenend up. A few minutes later, I was sitting in Den’s living room with Den and Danny. The evening sun slanting in the windows. Danny had made me a pallet in the floor of the spare room (Den’s “dressing room.”) A Hospice Aide that had been coming in for overnight arrived and Danny left to stay a few blocks away at our friend Jules’.

Den was much frailer than last I’d seen him. He’d started his morphine drip a week or so before. We sat up until midnight or 1:00 catching up, reminiscing about Saks, him telling me about shows he’d watched on The History Channel, one of his favorites. The Aide sat quietly at the table, reading, but would interrupt if it were time for a pill. When Den started to fade for the evening, I excused myself to my pallet. As I fell asleep, feeling like a little kid, my head on the floor, looking up at the ceiling, I heard the Aide, help Den go to the bathroom in the commode chair by his bed.

A couple hours later I woke up, he and the Aide were having a quiet conversation. I got up just to see if everything was alright, it was. I asked Den if he needed anything and he said, “You know what would be good right now? A good cup of coffee.”

And the rest of the weekend went sort of like that, doze a couple hours, get up, talk. Danny came back on Saturday morning, took me to breakfast.

The second night a different Aide. In the midst of a conversation, Den “went” somewhere. He looked up at the door to the living room, said, “Oh, Zshovanca! So nice of you to drop in. Here! Come sit by me, tell me everything!” He skootched over on his bed to make room. The aide said, “You know you’re talking to no one don’t you?” “No,” I interjected, “He doesn’t.” Dennis shot me a look that was half confusion and half rage. A sort of “Shut the fuck up, who are you?”

That night Den had many visitors, he talked for hours. I watched, fascinated. In memory, I believe he really had visits with all those folks that night. I imagine them in their homes asleep, visiting Den in their dreams, each one after the other, coming to say Goodbye.

Sunday came and time for me to say my own Goodbye. Den skootched over on the bed to make room for me. For all my internal rehearsals of that moment, I said little of what I meant to say. I said, “When I get to heaven, you’ll have to take me all around, show me the architecture.” He nodded, “I’ll be waiting,” he said. I touched his face. “You’re my person.” I said, “I’ll miss you.” He nodded.

Then a quick hug and I got up and felt my way into the sunlight outside the front door. Danny took my elbow, walked me the rest of the way to the car.

I started this post back in October ‘07, I just revisited it. I feel the need to post it, now, not that now is a better time than it might have been nearly a year ago. It cries for editing, for changes, but it is a Remembery. Editing be damned, read it for what it is, friends–a blog entry–A Remembery by all the rules I put on such:

Eighteen years ago I went to Minneapolis to help open a brand new Saks Fifth Avenue. It was the anchor for Gaviidae Common Mall sitting at the base of the fantastic Cesar Pelli designed Wells Fargo Center (formerly Norwest Tower). This particular Saks was a showcase, the first full-line out-of-town store the company had built in several years. (Any Saks that isn’t the 5th Avenue store is known as an OTS.)

I had come to the company right on the tail-end of an era in visual merchandising where folks knowledgible and skilled in the techniques of display were disappearing. Though I can’t necessarily point the finger directly to it, this was the era of full-blown AIDS, and the visual merchandising field was decimated by it. (All arts felt the dire effect of it.) Can the epidemic be blamed for the change that retail has gone through in the last nearly 20 years? Visual merchandising is also an expensive proposition, at least in the way it was practiced at that time.

When I went to Minneapolis for the store opening, we unpacked some 80 mannequins, 40 for the various departments of the store interior, and another 40 or so–a duplicate contingent–for use in the windows (the Minneapolis store had nine street level windows, four on the Nicollet side, five on the Seventh Street side). At the time, depending on the manufacturer, mannequins ranged from $800 to $1200 each.

Sometime shortly after the opening of the Minneapolis store, attitudes toward visual merchandising shifted toward this more “merchandisey” slant. At some point in the last 20 years, visual merchandising moved from a highly stylized art form to a rote and ruley exercise: Placing merchandise on the sales floor, then changing clothes on headless forms to match the rack immediately to its side. Extracting nearly all creativity, for the customer and visual merchandiser alike. As new stores opened , custom mannequins were developed for Saks and there was a marked departure from “realistic” mannequins to a stylized form. Where a hair style was molded into the sculpture of the head, and where on occasion you’d find molded shoes instead of feet. Now, I see reasons for these changes.

AIDS had taken its toll on the “old boys” who knew what they were doing with wigs and styling. Then, in the case of the shoes, mannequins tended to ruin them, the feet unable to accomodate the miriad heel-heights. Flats and low-heeled shoes were almost always ruined by the need to prop the heel of the shoe up to meet the heel of the mannequin. Pumps fared a bit better since they usually didn’t need to be bent, still the shape of the mannequins foot might stretch the body of the shoe in some unnatural way. At the end of any given season, we’d often have a box of ruined shoes totalling several thousand dollars at retail.

What it boiled down to was this, fewer and fewer retailers were willing to “take” the loss, and less and less knowledge and skill was needed to “manage” the visual aspect of visual merchandising. As time passed, and the skills were no longer required, it soon came to pass that no one, or at the most very few, had the knowledge to share with those who came to the biz with a “burning desire” to “be creative.” (Newcomers would say, “It looks like y’all have so much fun!”) They’d soon became disenchanted–uninterested in carrying a ten-foot ladder around the aisles of the selling floor to hang sale signs from the ceiling. They’d quit and leave with no idea of the style and wit that once was central to visual merchandising.

If I sound bitter, I’m not really. Just sadly noting the passing of something that once lived in me. The Minneapolis Saks, as well as the entire Mall, underperformed. As my visual merchandising mentor and good friend, Dennis Richards (God rest his soul), used to say. “The Ladies who lunch in Detroit, lunch in Bill Blass, the Ladies who lunch in Minneapolis, lunch in Carole Little.” If I may be so bold to say, it seems Minneapolitans had little use for the really good stuff.

Now the beautiful space that was a showplace of a Saks Fifth Avenue, is an Off Fifth outlet that’s doing quite well. It offers “final” markdown merchandise from other Saks’ OTS, as well as overruns from manufacturers of high end designer goods. I imagine the most valuable artwork has been moved out of the store, but honestly there’s still some good stuff hanging on the walls of this now discount house. The fine finishes and surfaces are still there. Fine wall coverings. Groovy furniture. It all seems wrong and at odds in this land of discounted value.

Suddenly I’m feeling sad. It almost feels like grief.

At the drive-in Sheila Ryan:

(1) Gained her first knowledge of the Holocaust.

(2) Proposed a fun activity she has yet to enact.

Separate incidents.

(more…)

Gordon Lish.

Where would I be now, had I “worked” with Gordon Lish? He was an absolute amazement for me. I think I’ve recounted briefly “literally sitting at his feet,” at a fiction–oh, shit, what would we call it? retreat? in Indiana. Three days. We met at a woman’s house. Sat in her living room floor around him. He said he could talk for hours, and we were free to get up and go to the bathroom, or if we had to indulge in the nasty habit, smoke, but he made it clear we would miss something if we did. I never got up to smoke, but I think I did get up once to go to the bathroom. Who knows what I missed?

I never worked for Lish, except for working hard on the “stuff” he proposed. Somewhere in this house, I have a blue canvas notebook with my notes of my time there. I sat with Lish two times. The time I just partially described, the second in a classroom at the University in Indiana. I think I mentioned before, across the aisle from me, Gary Lutz, and on the other aisle and one seat forward, Barton Allen. I think Michael Kimball was in my first sitting. I think he may have been 17 or so then.

Jesus, jesus, jesus! Just to sit there! Just to hear Lish talk. Honestly, his words came into my head, into my heart. My experience there colored every writerly notion I had inside me. And his admonishment: Do you have the sand to dare stand the test of time? You’re up against Shakespeare! You’re up against the Bible!

In little moments I try.

I did have a conversation on the phone with Gordon, when I was in NYC my first time with Saks. I was terrified to try to call him. I sat while they passed it through. He talked for several minutes, said things like, “if you need directions, ask anyone, we all love to help folks find their way around.” He was right. Toward the end of our conversation, he said, “What must you do? You must go to (I may not get this exactly right, it has been many years) Portabello Road, a little Italian restaurant on Thomas in the Village. You must order “Sole Bocca Des,” it isn’t on the menu. Tell them Gordon sent you.” I did. I still remember the taste and feel of it in my mouth. Honestly, the best thing I’ve ever tasted.

The thing I most remember? In a short, short note rejecting once again something I’d sent him, he said, “Don’t ever let anyone tell you you can’t have your speech.”

I think that may have been the day I started talking.

On the occasion of my 50th birthday a couple years ago, Danny and I went to New York, got ourselves all dressed up and met friends at the Odeon for dinner. After cocktails then wine with dinner and after dinner drinks and the subway ride back uptown in the wee hours of the morning, I stumbled a little on the stairs as we were coming up out of the subway station. Danny took my hand. We emerged to streets dampened by a sudden brief shower. Still holding hands we began to trot toward our hotel two or three blocks away. In my memory we looked for all the world like Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly, hands clasped, outer arms up and out for balance. We hardly touched the ground, toes gracefully pointed at every step.

I remember a teacher, when? First grade? Second grade? A substitute.  She handed out a sheet to color, I don’t rightly remember the subject of the sheet, though I have a vague sensation of it, I think it had to do with bunnies and Easter eggs. She instructed us to “Color, being careful to stay inside the lines.” Now I had a particlar way I preferred coloring to appear on a page. I especially loved the soft, lightly nappy feel of the paper of certain coloring books and I loved the way the color took to the paper in a very even, albeit ”surfacy” way. I was skilled with keeping all my marks the same direction. In certain coloring books my marks blended into a pleasing “field” of color. Hardly a mark line could be seen.

Now, the paper on this handout? Slick, hard, the lines mimeographed. The “color” didn’t take to it.  All my marks on this paper were completely visible, blending was not possible. There was no way to even it out.

So, the substitute made her way around the room, looking over shoulders. When she happened over mine, my coloring technique didn’t meet her exacting standards. “Fill up the holes,” she said. “Make the color solid,” she said.

I hated coloring that way, it always involved criss-crossings and messiness. It meant “leaning into” the crayon, rather than my rather delicate technique of “lightly rubbing” the crayon into the paper.

Still, I tried. I’m nothing, if I’m not aiming to please.

I “leaned” into the crayon. I gave up my “rules” about keeping all my lines the same direction. I caked color layer upon color layer. Still I could never fill “all” the holes. I got high praise for my efforts. But I stifled my own opinion of the piece, it’s lurid color, heavily flaked with much too much wax for my taste. I accepted her praise. And felt dirty for doing so.

By way of further reference to colors and coloring books. It seemed, every year for Christmas for the first several Christmasses of our lives (my siblings and I), we received coloring books, and new boxes of colors. There’s something magic about a new box of colors, the colors inside so beautifully arranged, all the points sharp. Such possibility! Anything could happen. Every year when I got several new coloring books, I’d vow to myself to finish one from beginning to end, as beautifully as possible coloring every page one after the other until I colored the last page. I have to confess I never finished that self-imposed task.

I was working furiously on a coloring-book Earth while my father fried biscuit-donuts and side-pork crackles across the room.

At the time I tended to ponder notions of Heaven and Hell more than I should have, given my pedigree. Indeed I had little reason to accept either as anything less than metaphysical certitude.

Hell was buried somewhere on page 23. Heaven was probably just beyond the table’s edge.

“Dad,” I paused, “how far would I have to dig to get to Hell?”
“I guess that depends on how deep of a hole you’re in to start with.” he answered without even looking up from the stove.

I hated it when he pulled that shit.

When Melanie was a little girl, she bought a coloring book expressly because of the picture of a stork that it contained. When she saw the drawing of the stork, Melanie thought to herself that it would look very beautiful if it were glossy and black, and so she bought the book and went home to color the stork with wax crayons. Well, you know what generally happens when you press very very hard on a wax crayon to produce a glossy effect (especially if you are very excited and eager to see a shiny black stork). But as she worked and worked on the picture, the stork came to look less and less like her imagined ideal and more like a mess till finally she grew so angry that she took her black crayon and drew a big black ‘X’ across the entire page. From that day forth Melanie (and I) came to speak of ’storking’ something when our ambitions exceeded our capacity and we got so furious that we felt driven to mutilate our work beyond redemption.

Cross-posted at clusterflock and memorycemetery.

Fifth grade. Music class. Teacher: Mrs. Shields, who was our music teacher throughout grade school.

Class just commencing; kids still jawing — when what does Mrs. Shields hear but a fragmentary eruption ” . . . urp — and wipe it on Dennis . . . “

A gasp from Mrs. Shields. “Who said that?”

“I did.”

“Well, Sheila, I wouldn’t have expected that from you.” (Mrs. Shields never quite knew what to make of Sheila, a well-read little girl who enjoyed serious music — Bach, Mozart, et cetera — almost as much as she liked playing the fool for an audience.)

“Class, who can think of a nicer word for what Sheila just said?”

And so the fifth-graders offered their family’s preferred terms — throw up, vomit, be sick . . . (Sheila just naturally had to say ‘regurgitate’.) Dale Blair raised his hand and allowed as how, “My daddy says ‘puke’.” Another gasp from Mrs. Shields. “Well, he shouldn’t say that in front of you and your sister.”

But none of the children guessed the very best word, Mrs. Shields’s favorite word, the nicest word for what Sheila said, and this seemed to please Mrs. Shields, as it gave her the opportunity to not quite stifle a coy smile and announce:

“The word is . . . up-chuck.”

Cross-posted as Sheila Asks (on Behalf of Mrs. Shields) at clusterflock.

I was just outside smoking a cig on the patio, and this came to me. Background: We lived in Minneapolis nearly 5 years, 1989 to 1994.

I remember winter nights there like the night tonight here in KC. Single digits, a breezy wind from the North. Largely, I remember it being dark when I went to work, dark when I came home at night. In the coldest part of winter, in my office (between two of the display windows at street level) at Saks, I could see my breath. If it was above zero, I would just tie on my hood, grab my mittens and walk about a mile (10 minutes? 15?) to work. If below zero, I’d ride the bus and it actually took longer than walking.

I remember how my feet never really got warm in restaurants when we’d go out to eat.

I remember how the first warmish day of Spring, 40 degrees or so, boys and girls alike would peel off many layers and go running or walking around the lakes in the city.

Summer there, even if only 30 minutes long, was a celebration of survival.

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